Friday, 4 January 2013

Christmas Road Trip - Swazi Sanctuary

I don't think I would have thought, a year ago, that I would be spending Christmas 2012 in a grass hut in Swaziland -- but I am so glad I did -- it turned out to be a delightful treat !

We stayed at the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, in traditional Swazi style beehive huts. The sanctuary was a virtual Garden of Eden, with all sorts of species of antelopes (bleisboks, nyalas, impalas, waterbucks) and zebras roaming freely. We didn't bump into the resident hippos, which is probably a good thing, but we did see crocodiles, turtles, and plenty of bird life in the little lake we looked out over while having breakfast.  I had to wait for a herd of zebras to cross my path one evening on my way back to my hut.

We spent Christmas morning at the homestead of a Swazi Chief (see next post) before returning to the lodge for a sumptuous Christmas lunch.  We retreated to our grass huts to wait out a glorious afternoon thunder and lightening storm, while the local revelers continued their picnics and swims (not too wise in a thunderstorm?).  As it turns out, the Swazi hut builders know what they are doing -- not one drop of water leaked through my grass hut !



Merry Christmas, 2012 !


Our breakfast area overlooked this lake, teeming with birdlife, crocs, turtles, and fish.


Local revelers enjoy their Christmas afternoon with a braai, picnic, and swim...despite the impending thunder and lightening storm!

While I didn't run into the local hippos, I did have to make way for a herd of zebras on the way to my hut.
 
My Swazi hut !


Bleisbok.

The nyala who greeted me outside my hut on Christmas morning.

Thursday, 3 January 2013

Christmas Road Trip - The Little Guys

I thought I would share some of the smaller creatures that graced my path on my recent travels.  Like all life's little treasures, they are easy to miss if you are too preoccupied with finding the bigger stuff.

The chameleon figures prominently in local folklore.

Agama tree lizard.
I don't know the name of this tree lizard.


Leopard Tortoise.


Saddle-billed stork.


This Red Bishop visited our breakfast area on Christmas morning.

This croc was a Christmas morning visitor, too.

Golden Orb Spider. I watched one of these, the size of my hand, weave a web of golden thread.  I didn't think it would show up on my camera, so I got this photo from the web (the other web).


I have also witnessed the migration of the African Caper White butterfly throughout my travels and in Gaborone.

Wednesday, 2 January 2013

Christmas Road Trip - Kruger National Park

Here are some pictures from in and around Kruger National Park.
Giraffe snack.
Elephant snack.  We watched this elephant strip the tree of its bark. 

We came across this beautiful female cheetah resting under a tree.

We watched her for a while as she stretched and then disappeared into the bushes.



It was  hot day, and this hyena decided to take a dip.

This elephant had the same thing in mind, but first had to bully us out of his way to the stream. We backed up rather quickly!
Ah !  Now that's better !



Christmas Road Trip - en route to Kruger

The Three Rondavels

Blyde River Canyon

God's Window


 
I took a tour over Christmas from Johannesburg to Durban, via Kruger and Swaziland.  We took a scenic route to Kruger, passing through the lush Blyde River Canyon, which is the third deepest canyon in the world, after the Grand Canyon (USA) and Fish River Canyon (Namibia).

Did you see the movie The Gods Must Be Crazy ?  The final scene where the San Bushman tosses the coke bottle off the edge of the earth was shot from the cliff at God's Window on a misty day.

Tuesday, 1 January 2013

Happy New Year !

I had picked up the ingredients for a pizza party for one, selected a dvd to watch on my laptop, and was prepared for a quiet night at home.  I had just returned from a Christmas trip to Kruger, Swaziland and Durban, and was ready for an early night to catch up on a bit of holiday sleep deprivation.  My landlord wouldn't hear of that, and insisted I join him at a house party.  I didn't think I could handle a long, loud, boisterous night, so I told him I would think about it.  As I was mentally convincing myself of the benefits of staying in, my body was hopping into the shower, picking out an outfit, getting dressed, and putting my keys and emergency cab fare in my purse.  Before I knew it, I was in Mike's passenger seat and on my way to the New Year's Eve house party.

We were hosted by a couple who run a Portuguese cafe.  It seems they are in the right line of work, because they had prepared a sophisticated, gourmet seafood feast of appetizers by the pool followed by a fish stew cooked in a South African potjie, a three-legged cast iron pot placed over an open fire. We lingered over dinner, as one should for a home-cooked, gourmet meal, and finished just in time to mark the stroke of twelve with a champagne toast.

After the toast, we jumped into the pool !  Apparently, it is Portuguese tradition to take a midnight swim in the sea to wash away the sins of the past year.  I didn't have a swimsuit, so jumped in fully (well, partially) clothed.  It didn't take long to dry off in the hot desert air.  A buffet of fresh fruit and Portuguese baking was then presented on the outdoor dining table. I was given a peck on the lips by the flirtatious resident parrot, who must have been after the crumbs.  At 2 am, when the host started dancing on his head to Shakira, we decided it was time to return home.

Who knows where I will find myself next New Year's Eve ?  Most likely, back in wintery Edmonton with my friends. I am sure I will enjoy the company and whatever repast is served, but it is not too likely that I will be jumping into any bodies of water or kissing exotic birds. However, I will issue a challenge to my friends to learn to dance on their heads -- we've got to have some fun, afterall !


Tuesday, 18 December 2012

It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas !

 
On Sunday, I hosted "WUSCY COOKIE Madness" at my house.  Melissa, Haley, David, Alison, Thandi, Becca and I baked up a storm of brownies, cupcakes, fudge, shortbread, and peanut butter balls.

While the baking was cooling, so were we -- in the pool !  Christmas in Africa -- what can I say ?

Russ, Kari, Rachel and Isobel sent a box full of Christmas that arrived just in time for the festivities.  I decorated the mantle with goodies they sent and played the Christmas cd they included in the package.


Christmas decorations, courtesy of my family !


Becca and Thandi mixing cupcake batter.
 
The prep station.
The girls decorated paper plates.
Never stop to bake that Christmas cake !
Reindeer cupcakes.


A well earned dip in the pool !








Saturday, 8 December 2012

A letter to my niece

My 10 year-old niece, Isobel, sent me a letter with some questions about how and what I am doing in Africa.  My whole family sent letters to me, in response to a request from the organizers of a recent staff retreat.  Isobel, in particular, asked some very good questions -- some that others have asked me before, and a couple that no one has ever asked me before.  I thought I would share my answers:


Dear Isobel,
Thank you for your letter.  It was a nice surprise to get letters from all of you – you, your sister, your Dad, Kari, and your Grandpa Bill.  My colleagues who organized our staff retreat planned that surprise for us.  When you are living far from family, it is so nice to get letters from home.

Thank you for telling me a bit about your life.  It is good to know that you have so many favorite colours.  That will make it easy to shop for you!  Orange and brown are very popular colours here now. 
I am looking forward to hearing you play the guitar when I see you again.  By then, I am sure you will know more than 4 songs.  I would also like to hear your sister play the Charlie Brown Christmas song on the piano.  Please let her know I am happy to hear that she is still involved with music.

I would like to see you riding horses again.  You wrote that you are “starting to jump horses a couple of feet high”.  Although I knew what you meant, I had to laugh, because I had a picture in my mind of you leaping over miniature horses.  I watched you at riding lessons when you were just 5, and even then, I was impressed with your skills.  You were doing acrobatics, flipping from one side of the horse to another.  I thought you were very brave!
Isobel, you asked some very good questions about what and how I am doing here in Africa, and I will answer them.

Is it everything you expected?
Although I had been to other countries in Africa before (Rwanda, Kenya, Tanzania, and Morocco), I had never been to southern Africa.  I wasn’t sure exactly what to expect to find in Botswana, so I did some research before I came. 

I learned that Botswana is a peaceful, stable country. Botswana had been spared the wounds of deep seated colonialism and Apartheid that were experienced by its neighbours. 

I have found that the people I meet here are very kind, gentle, and tolerant.  Maybe this is a reflection of their history as a nation -- or, maybe their history as a nation is a result of who they are, as people.

I also learned that Botswana is the number one diamond producer in the world, and because of this, it has been granted middle income status. The government has wisely invested its revenues in infrastructure and services, so it has good roads and schools.  However, once I came here, I learned that the wealth is concentrated in the city, and there are still many people living in poverty.  

I am working with a national organization that provides support and services to people living with an illness called HIV that can progress to AIDS. Although HIV and AIDS impact people from all segments of society, those most vulnerable are those who live in poverty.  Before I came here, I expected to see more people who look sick, but there are medications now that allow people with HIV to live relatively normal lives. The reality is that 1 in 5 people live with HIV, but you wouldn’t be able to pick them out in a crowd. 

If you want to learn more about things like colonialism, Apartheid, and HIV and AIDS, I can tell you more in another letter or when we see each other again. 

Is it too hot in Africa?

Right now, it is very hot here in Botswana.  While it is winter in the northern hemisphere, it is summer here in the southern hemisphere.  The sun is at its most intense right now at the Tropic of Capricorn, which happens to pass through Botswana.  Days here usually reach above 30 degrees Celsius, and sometimes temperatures get close to 40 degrees.  I am fortunate to have a pool to cool off in and air conditioning at home.  However, I don’t have air conditioning at my place of work, so it can be a little hard to handle.

Our winter (your summer) was quite cool.  It got to close to freezing at times.  Most homes and buildings are not heated, so people have to bundle up. 
Will it change the way you think?

This is a very good question, Isobel. 
One of the reasons I enjoy living in and traveling to different countries is that it does challenge the way you think about the world, and about yourself. 
When you go to a new county, it’s a bit like being a small child again.  You have to relearn how to do many things: how to count change; how to get places; how to cross the street safely; how to greet people; and how to eat new foods.  Sometimes, you have to learn a new language.  You have to think again about how to do very basic things.
You may come with a set of expectations about how people should act, and then learn that they have a whole different way of doing things.  Sometimes we need to remind ourselves that there is not only one right way to do things.  There are always reasons for the way we and others do things, and it's good to think about what those reasons are.
Sometimes, people may react to you based on how you look, where you are from, and what you may represent to them.  That gives you an opportunity to learn about how their history and experiences have shaped the way they think -- and also to think about what has shaped the way you think about the world.  
I wish many things for you and your sister, and one of them is that you, too, will have the opportunity to experience life in other countries.  Living in other places not only changes the way you think -- it also broadens and expands the way you think.
Do you even like it there?

I am enjoying it here, very much, Isobel.  
My favorite part of the day is my morning walk to work.  I pass many friendly people, who always say “Dumela” or hello with a warm smile.  I also see beautiful trees and blossoms.  I especially like the purple jacaranda blossoms and the red flame tree blossoms, both of which are blooming right now. 
I like the people I work with.  They are very passionate about what they do, and they know they are making a difference in peoples’ lives.  It is a pleasure to work with them.   My other wish for you and your sister is that you will find something to do in life that you are passionate about and is meaningful to you and those you touch.
When I come home in the evening, I take a few moments to watch the weaver birds building their nests in the tree in the courtyard.  I tried to count them, and there are more than 100 nests in one tree.  Then, if it is still hot, I take a dip in the pool and make myself dinner. 
Sometimes on weekends, I will go to a concert or out for dinner with friends.  I see different parts of the city when I go on weekly walks with a hiking / running club. 
My all time favorite thing to do when I have is enough time is to go on safari.  I never get tired of looking at animals.  They are always doing something different.
Is it safe?

Botswana is a relatively safe country, and has been fortunate to avoid the political and social turmoil that has touched many of its neighbouring countries.  I am not worried about things like political coups or wars breaking out.
I walk a lot in Gaborone, and I feel safe when I pass by friendly faces on the streets. I am careful to take taxis when I go out at night, though.

Like most places in the world, crime is a problem here, and people take precautions.  Many people live in gated houses with guard dogs.  I have six keys I need to use to get into my house: a remote control for the front gate; one key for the main house; another for the entry into my unit; another for my bedroom; one for the door to the courtyard patio; and one for the side gate.  So, I feel safe at home when all the doors and gates are locked.  We don’t have any guard dogs, but our neighbours’ dogs would kick up a fuss if anything strange were to happen. 
Although -- I do confess that I am not convinced that walled and gated houses are really the safest places to live.  It is very easy to come and go without seeing your neighbours, which is not good if you do not know if this or that person going into a house is the person who lives there.  I have a friend who lives in a neighbourhood without the big walls.  She knows all her neighbours, and they look out for one another.
You may also be wondering if I have encountered any safety issues with wildlife.  So far, I have managed to avoid dangerous encounters with poisonous insects and snakes.  I have been on several safaris, and although I have never felt threatened by the wildlife, I woke up to the sound of a lion growling next to my tent one night when I was camping!  Needless to say, I didn’t get back to sleep that night.


Isobel, I will be thinking about you and everyone at Christmas, and I am looking forward to seeing you in the New Year!  Please write again to tell me more about how you are doing and to ask more questions.

Much Love,

Aunt Stephanie