Words

I started to compile a list of interesting and amusing expressions, words, and terms I have come across here. Some are in Setswana. Some follow the British tradition. Some are just fun to say. 
Go on - Give it a try !

• Chakalaka -  Is this a dance move ?  No - it's a spice or a vegetable chutney served as a side dish.
• Combi -  Is this a meal order ?  No - it's the local minibus that serves as the transit system.
• Full stop - Period. 
• Howzit ? - Just like it sounds.
• Isn't it ? - Question asked to confirm that the listener agrees with what you just said, regardless of accordance with the verb, tense, gender, or number.  "That makes sense, isn't it ?"
• Knock off -  Not a poor copy of a brand name product, but the action of finishing the work day. i.e., "What time do you knock off ?"
• Koko ! (or Kho-kho !) - Imitation of a knocking sound to let someone know you are entering the room.  It also means chicken.
• Late - Trust me, you don't want to be late !  It doesn't mean you are tardy, but that you have passed away.
• Pula - A multi-purpose word to denote rain, money, and blessings.  "Pula !" is also shouted at sporting events as a cheer.
• Thebe - The currency pula is comprised of 100 thebes, or raindrops. I think that is rather charming !
• Robots - Traffic lights. "Turn right at the next robots."
• Shake Shake - The term for Chibuku - a fermented sorghum beer sold in cardboard cartons.
• Sharp ! - Okay - bye, now !
• Soon soon (or now, now now, and just now) - Sooner than soon.  Different degrees of soon. I ordered lunch, and asked that my drink come first.  The waitress asked, "Do you want it now, or now now ?"
• Tswee-tswee - Please.
• ...and what what - and so on, etc.
• Yebo -  Slang (Zulu) for yes.

Sharp !

Nxai Pan Trip - Part I

For the President's Day long weekend (July 14 - 17), my house-mate Erin and I joined our friends and colleagues, Alison, and her two daughters, and Blair, and his son, for a camping trip in the Nxai Pans.  Nxai Pan National Park is part of the Makgadikgadi Pans network of parched dry lakes interspersed with savannah, which comprises the largest salt pan network in the world. 

Alison, Thandi, Becka, Erin and I set out from Gaborone Friday afternoon to meet up with Blair and Willis, who were travelling from Maun.  We stayed overnight at the Khama Rhino Sanctuary near Serowe. We did a quick drive through the Rhino sanctuary (seeing no rhinos) before continuing our journey on Saturday.

We met Blair and Willis at the park gate, and set off to our campsite -- or so we thought !  One of our vehicles quickly got stuck in the deep sand, and we wisely decided to camp near the gate as night was falling.

The next morning, we opted to continue with only one vehicle.  After paring down our gear, the 7 of us piled into the car and plowed through the sand tracks to our campsite. 

We spent a relaxing weekend hanging out at the campsite, playing games with the kids (very creative and entertaining kids!), and going on game drives. 

The final day was an active one for game -- both during the day and night. 

In the middle of the night, I was awakened by the loud purr/growl of a lion !  This was followed by the sound of scratching at our tent.  I lay motionless, wondering at what point I should make a noise to scare the perpetrator away, at the risk of causing a commotion and waking everyone else up. Fortunately, whatever it was (a jackal, by the looks of the tracks the next morning) lost interest.  Of course, I didn't get back to sleep, and was cognizant of other sounds of life around us -- an elephant passing through the campsite, the grunts of lions mating, and the yips of jackals.  It was a thrilling night, to say the very least !

Nxai Pan Trip - Part II - How we got there

We're going to the Pans ! : )

Just hanging out.

Thandi and Becka all set for a long drive.

Rakops - last fuel stop before the Pans.

This guy has the right idea - no petrol required for donkeys !

Nxai Pan Trip - Part III - Where we camped

Just chillin' at the campsite.

In Canada, kids carve snow forts.  In Africa, kids carve termite mounds.

Becka's new friend.

The spikes are to keep the elephants away from the washroom taps.

Nxai Pan Trip - Part IV - What we saw

We saw this giraffe and his two friends on the drive up.

Some of these baobob trees are more than 2,000 years old !

The gang at the baobob tree.

Ostrich parade.

Zebra and  Oryx.

This ellie was making its way to our campsite.

This hornbill and his pals entertained us at the campsite.

The Kori Bustard is the world's largest bird that flies.

I am fascinated by kudu horns.

We followed lion tracks along the side of the road.

The flat pans.

Another breathtaking African sunset !

Nxai Pans Trip - Part V - Meanwhile, at the watering hole...

First up - the wildebeests.

And off they go !

Next up - the zebras.  You can take a horse to water....

....but you can't make it drink.  The zebras were extremely wary.

Now it is the elephants' turn.

Meeting up with old friends.

An elephant sundowner !

Carfree, or Carless ?

Since I arrived in Gaborone, folks have been advising me to get a used car.  Many expats do, as they are fairly easy to sell at close to purchase price, making it an affordable way to get around.  Due to the dry desert climate, cars don't easily corrode, and consequently don't depreciate in value very quickly. 

Gaborone is fairly spread out, so it can take some planning to get from point A to B without a car.  There is a transit system of sorts, but it's not really reliable and takes a bit of figuring out.

However, when I lived on the other side of the tracks and witnessed the rush hour bottlenecks on the bridges crossing the tracks, I balked at the idea of owning a car.  Who needs that headache ?

I came to learn and embrace my daily transit routine.  It got me out and moving and put me in touch with local people I would not normally meet in the cocoon of a car. This has led to some interesting encounters (see Taxi Talk posts).  It has also made me a bit vulnerable (I was pick-pocketed once). 

When I recently had a chance to go in on a car purchase with my house-mate, I decided I would continue with my carfree existence. 

I have come to value my morning walk to work.  It is really the only exercise I get.  If I had a car, it would be far too tempting to drive to work every day.

For the odd time I have an arm load of groceries, I don't mind paying for a taxi ride home.

I have to admit, though, not having a car does make it a challenge to explore on weekends, and there have been times I have regretted my decision.  I don't explore very much during evenings, either. But, truth be told, I enjoy my quiet evenings at home to cook dinner, check e-mails, read, etc.  It's nice to not feel like I should be rushing around, just because I can.

So for now, I will continue to be carfree and carefree -- or carless and careless ?

Those who have advised me to get a car also argue it's a good move for security reasons.  Just yesterday, a new friend of mine was mugged on her morning walk to work.  Is it just the luck of the draw that that hasn't happened to me yet ? 

Cross your fingers that I continue to be safe in my carfree life here.

"You'll do" (Taxi Talk - Part II)

Taxi driver: "I stopped for you because you are white."
Me: ?
Taxi driver: "I want a white girlfriend."
Me.  "Why do you want a white girlfriend?  What is wrong with having a Motswana girlfriend?"
Taxi driver:  "I want a white girlfriend."
Me: "Well, it won't be me.  I am too old for you."
Taxi driver:  "Then you can find me a young white girlfriend.  And if you can't find a young one, then you'll do."

Tips for Batswana Students Moving to Canada

I was recently asked to provide some tips for Batswana students moving to Canada.  Here's what I came up with, based on my observations of cultural differences.

1. Winter wear. Canadian winters can be long and cold.  You will need to have warm winter wear.  There is good selection in Canada, so you don't have to stock up here, but you do need to budget accordingly.  Invest in winter boots with a good sole.  Streets and sidewalks can get very icy.
2. Crossing the street. Don't jay-walk.  Cross the streets only at the marked crossings.  People get ticketed for jay-walking.  Remember when you first arrive to look in the opposite direction from what you are used to before crossing.
3. Invitations. If new friends invite you out for dinner, drinks, etc., don't assume that they will pay for (treat) you.  They may expect you to pay your own bill (go dutch).
4. Meals. Lunch is served earlier than it is here; usually at 12:00 pm.  People will often have a light lunch at noon and then a bigger dinner in the evening, at around 6:00 pm.
5. Greetings. You may notice that strangers don't greet one another on the street like they do here.  Don't be offended if someone doesn't return your greeting. If they don't know you, they may not feel comfortable talking to you.  Strangers tend to avoid eye contact, especially in elevators.  However, if you say you want help or directions, people are usually pretty helpful.
6. Addresses.  People are less formal, and will often ask that you call them by their first name.  Your professors may be a little more formal than other people, though.
7. Personal space.  People like to keep their distance and aren't as used to physical contact as are people here. 
8. Public displays of affection. It is not common for heterosexual men to hold hands or have physical contact with one another in public.  You will see couples displaying affection, though.
9. Dating.  It takes time to get to know people.  Don't be discouraged, but try not to come on too strongly.
10. Bartering.  It is not common to barter, particularly not in stores.  You can negotiate, though.

Christmas in June - Part II

Despite my best intentions to not exploit the children of my friends and co-workers, I couldn't resist sharing these photos with you -- these kids are just too darned cute !  I took these pictures at a young lady's 3rd birthday party on June 30, with a Christmas in June theme.     

Like little kids everywhere, Lola and her friends delighted in coloring, face painting, jumping in the jumping castle, and feasting on hotdogs and cake. 

They laughed.  They cried.  They had fights.  They made up.

One little fellow pegged me as his go to person.  Every so often, there would be a tug at my leg, followed by "Teacha?", and then a story or plea I'd need interpretation to understand.  I understood the request to use the facilities in time, but was too late for the "so and so is painting on the jumping castle with paints" tattle. 

I hope these photos will help Lola remember what a fun party her parents organized for her. 

You are only 3 once !  Enjoy, Little Lady !