On Christmas morning, we wrapped sarapes emblazoned with the King's face around our hips and made a short trek to a local village. In the village, we were greeted by the Chief, a grandmotherly woman who inherited the title from her late husband. Female Chiefs are not too common in patriarchal Swaziland. The Chief happens to be a member of the Swazi Royal Family, and is King Mswati III's aunt.
Swaziland is the last absolute monarchy in Africa. The Swazi King prides himself on upholding local traditions, including the practice of polygamy. He currently has 14 wives. He is also known for his lavish and opulant lifestyle, which is criticized by some as being maintained at the expense of addressing the many challenges that plague the citizens of Swaziland, who have the dubious distinction of living with the highest HIV prevalence rate -- and the lowest life expectancy -- in the world.
The Chief doesn't seem to benefit from the Royal Family's wealth, and instead, invites tourists to her homestead as a means of raising funds to provide for the 327 AIDS orphans under her charge. It was a pleasure to spend Christmas morning with her and the kids, as they took us through their daily routines and patiently taught us songs and dances.
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| As you can see, I couldn't get enough of this little warrior. |
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| I am grinding cornmeal for the children's Christmas lunch. |
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| The Chief. |
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| Our guide, demonstrating Swazi attire. |
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